Starting a collection
without going broke.

Collecting is one of those hobbies where you can spend $20 or $20,000 and have an equally good time. The key is knowing what you want, understanding what you're looking at, and not getting ripped off. Here's everything I wish someone had told me when I started.

// PICK A LANE (AT FIRST)

The biggest mistake new collectors make is buying everything that looks cool. You'll end up with a shelf full of random stuff that doesn't feel like a collection. It feels like a yard sale.

Start with one category. Maybe it's N64 games. Maybe it's Star Wars figures from the 80s. Maybe it's sealed Pokemon booster packs. Whatever genuinely excites you. Once you've built a focused collection, you can branch out. But having a starting point keeps you from burning through money on impulse buys.

Some good starter categories that won't immediately empty your bank account:

• GameBoy games (loose carts, tons of variety under $20)
• PS1 RPGs (still relatively affordable, large library)
• Funko Pops (commons are $5-15, easy to display)
• VHS tapes (insanely cheap right now, great cover art)
• Modern vinyl records (game soundtracks, limited colors)

// UNDERSTAND CONDITION

Condition is everything in collecting. A mint-in-box game can be worth 10x what a loose cart goes for. You need to understand the grading scales people use.

For video games:

• CIB (Complete in Box) — game, box, manual, and any inserts all present
• Loose — just the cartridge or disc, no box
• Sealed/WATA/VGA graded — factory sealed, often professionally graded

For figures:

• MISB — Mint In Sealed Box. Never opened.
• MIB — Mint In Box. Opened but figure unused, box intact.
• Loose, complete — Out of box, all accessories present.
• Loose, incomplete — Missing pieces. Usually much cheaper.

For vinyl records (Goldmine scale):

• M (Mint) — Perfect, unplayed. Sealed counts as Mint.
• NM (Near Mint) — Played once or twice, no visible wear.
• VG+ (Very Good Plus) — Light surface marks, plays without skipping.
• VG (Very Good) — Noticeable wear, some surface noise, but plays through.

// SPOTTING FAKES

Fakes are everywhere, especially in retro games and trading cards. Here's what to watch for:

Fake cartridges:

Open the cart (a 3.8mm gamebit screwdriver costs $6). Real Nintendo boards have "Nintendo" stamped on the PCB and use specific chip configurations. Fakes use generic ROM chips that look obviously different. If a seller refuses to show the board, walk away.

Fake trading cards:

Hold the card up to a bright light. Real Pokemon and Magic cards have a dark layer in the middle of the cardstock that blocks light. Fakes are uniformly translucent. The rosette pattern under magnification is also different. For high-value cards, only buy graded (PSA, CGC, BGS).

Reproduction boxes:

Repro boxes are extremely common for N64 and SNES games. They look good in photos but feel wrong in person. The cardboard weight is different, the print quality is slightly off, and the color saturation is usually too high. If a "CIB" game is priced below market and the box looks too perfect, it's probably a repro.

// WHERE TO BUY

In rough order from "best deals" to "most convenient":

• Estate sales and garage sales — The best prices, but you have to hunt. Show up early.
• Local game stores — Usually fair prices, you can inspect before buying.
• Specialized dealers (like us) — Higher than garage sale prices, but everything is authenticated and accurately described.
• eBay — Huge selection. Prices are market-driven. Use "sold listings" to check real values, not asking prices.
• Amazon/generic online — Usually the worst prices and highest fake risk. Avoid for collectibles.

// STORAGE MATTERS

The way you store your collection directly affects its long-term value. A few rules:

• Keep everything out of direct sunlight. UV fades box art and yellows plastics.
• Control humidity. Cardboard warps above 60% humidity. Basements are often bad.
• Use protective cases. Universal Game Cases for loose carts ($1-2 each). Top-loaders and team bags for cards. Protector boxes for figures.
• Don't stack heavy items on boxes. I've seen too many crushed N64 boxes from stacking.
• For vinyl: store records vertically, never flat. Flat storage causes warping over time.

// SET A BUDGET

Seriously. It's easy to get caught up in the excitement and spend rent money on a graded Pokemon card. Decide how much you're comfortable spending per month and stick to it. The good stuff will still be there next month. Prices fluctuate. Sales happen. Collections get liquidated. Patience is the single best money-saving tool in this hobby.

My other budget tip: focus on one big purchase per quarter and fill in with small stuff between. A $200 grail feels better when you saved up for it instead of impulse-buying three $70 items you're lukewarm about.